Sunscreen: how to choose and are pharmacy brands better
You're standing in a drugstore or pharmacy, looking at the sunscreen shelf. SPF 15, 30, 50, 50+. UVA, UVB. Chemical, mineral, hybrid. Prices from 4 EUR to 35 EUR. And you think: why is this so complicated? It's just sun cream!
Then you read that UV radiation causes skin cancer, premature ageing, hyperpigmentation... and suddenly you feel the pressure to pick "the right one." But which one?
Relax. Today we'll walk through sunscreens step by step - no marketing nonsense, just the essentials. You'll learn what really matters and what's not worth overpaying for.
Why sunscreen at all - isn't it overkill?
Let's start with the fundamental question: do you really need sunscreen every day? The answer: yes. And no, it's not dermocosmetics marketing.
What does the sun do to your skin?
UV (ultraviolet) radiation is an invisible skin killer. It penetrates deep layers and:
- UVB: Causes sunburn, damages cell DNA, leads to skin cancer (primarily melanoma, basal cell carcinoma)
- UVA: Penetrates deeper, destroys collagen and elastin, causing wrinkles, loss of firmness, and hyperpigmentation. Also increases cancer risk.
And note: UV works all year round. In winter too. Through clouds too (up to 80% of radiation passes through cloud cover). Through windows too (UVA penetrates glass).
Dermatologists agree: sunscreen is the most effective method of preventing skin ageing and skin cancer. No serum, cream, or treatment beats it.
SPF - what does it actually mean and which to choose?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. But what does it really mean?
How does SPF work?
SPF tells you how many times longer you can stay in the sun without burning compared to having no sunscreen.
Example: Your skin without sunscreen starts to redden after 10 minutes. With SPF 30 cream, you could theoretically last 30 times longer = 300 minutes (5 hours).
But note: That's theory! In practice, nobody applies enough cream (more on that in a moment), so the real protection time is shorter.
SPF and protection level
- SPF 15: Blocks ~93% of UVB radiation
- SPF 30: Blocks ~97% of UVB
- SPF 50: Blocks ~98% of UVB
- SPF 100: Blocks ~99% of UVB
As you can see, the difference between SPF 30 and 50 is only 1% more protection. But the devil is in the details - that 1% can matter during prolonged exposure.
Which SPF to choose?
Minimum SPF 30 - for everyone, every day. That's the gold standard of dermatology.
SPF 50 or 50+:
- Very fair, sensitive skin
- Tendency to hyperpigmentation, melasma
- Acne treatment (retinoids, acids) - skin is more sun-sensitive
- High exposure - beach, mountains, water sports
- Children
SPF 15? Not enough. Dermatologists don't recommend it. SPF 30 minimum is better.
UVA vs UVB - why both must be protected against?
SPF only indicates protection against UVB (sunburn). But what about UVA (ageing, cancer)?
How to check UVA protection?
Look for on the packaging:
- UVA logo in a circle: Means UVA protection is at least 1/3 of the SPF value (European standard). That's the minimum.
- Broad spectrum: American standard - UVA and UVB protection
- PA+++/PA++++: Asian UVA protection rating system (more + signs = better)
Rule: If a cream has SPF 30 and a UVA logo, then UVA protection is at least SPF 10. Look for creams with the UVA logo - it guarantees comprehensive protection.
Chemical vs mineral filters - what's the difference?
This is one of the most common questions. Here's the difference in a nutshell:
Chemical (organic) filters
How do they work? They absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, which is released from the skin.
Substances: Avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate... (long names, you don't need to memorise them)
Advantages:
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- Doesn't leave a white cast
- Easier to achieve high SPF
- Better UVA protection (some ingredients)
Disadvantages:
- May irritate sensitive skin
- Need ~20 minutes to start working (absorption into skin)
- Some ingredients may cause allergies
- Harmful to coral reefs (avobenzone, octinoxate)
Mineral (physical, inorganic) filters
How do they work? They sit on the skin surface like a mirror and reflect/scatter UV radiation.
Substances: Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide
Advantages:
- Work immediately (no waiting)
- Safe for sensitive skin, children, atopic skin
- Stable - don't break down in sunlight
- Ocean-safe (reef-safe)
- Don't cause allergies (almost never)
Disadvantages:
- Thick consistency, harder to spread
- May leave a white cast (especially on darker skin tones)
- High SPF harder to achieve
Hybrid filters (mix)
Many modern sunscreens combine both types - to merge the benefits: the light consistency of chemical filters + the safety of mineral ones. Often a good compromise.
Which to choose?
- Sensitive, atopic skin, children: Mineral (zinc oxide)
- Oily, acne-prone skin: Chemical (lighter consistency)
- Normal skin: Either, or hybrid
- Eco-conscious: Mineral (reef-safe)
How much sunscreen to apply - this is where most people go wrong
This is the most important piece of information in this entire article: you're applying too little sunscreen. Almost certainly.
The golden rule: 2 mg per cm2 of skin
What does that mean in practice?
- Face + neck: 1/4 teaspoon (about 1.25 ml) - that's actually a lot!
- Body (entire): About 6-7 teaspoons (30-35 ml) - the size of a golf ball
Most people apply 1/4 to 1/2 of that amount. The result? Instead of SPF 50, you effectively have SPF 10-15.
Two-finger rule: Squeeze sunscreen along two fingers (index and middle) - that's the amount for face and neck. Sounds like a lot? Because it is. But that's what's needed.
How often to reapply?
- Every 2 hours during prolonged sun exposure
- After swimming (even if the sunscreen is "water-resistant")
- After towelling off
- After intense exercise/sweating
Daily skincare (city, office)? Once in the morning is enough. Unless you're outdoors most of the day.
Pharmacy vs drugstore - is it worth paying more?
Now the million-euro question: are pharmacy sunscreens better than drugstore ones?
Pharmacy sunscreens (La Roche-Posay, Vichy, Avene, Eucerin, Bioderma)
Advantages:
- Dermatologically tested, often on sensitive skin
- Fewer potentially irritating substances
- Better UVA protection (often PA++++ or very high PPD)
- Dedicated to different skin types (acne-prone, atopic, with hyperpigmentation)
- More elegant formulations (newer filters, lighter consistencies)
Disadvantages:
- More expensive - 10-25 EUR for 50 ml
Drugstore sunscreens (Garnier, Nivea, L'Oreal, Hawaiian Tropic)
Advantages:
- Affordable - 4-10 EUR for 50-200 ml
- Large bottles (economical for body application)
- Widely available
Disadvantages:
- May contain more fragrances and preservatives
- Sometimes weaker UVA protection (not always stated)
- Thicker consistency (especially cheaper ones)
Is it worth paying more?
Yes, if:
- You have sensitive, atopic, or acne-prone skin
- You use retinoids, acids, or are treating hyperpigmentation (you need maximum UVA protection)
- You want an elegant consistency (light, invisible cream under makeup)
No, if:
- You have normal, healthy skin without special requirements
- You're looking for body sunscreen (large surfaces - drugstore is economical)
- Budget matters
The sweet spot: Pharmacy sunscreen for the face (smaller package, slower use), drugstore for the body (large packages, economical).
What else to check on the label?
1. Water resistant / Very water resistant
Water resistant: Sunscreen holds for 40 minutes in water
Very water resistant: 80 minutes
But you should still reapply after getting out of the water!
2. Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores)
Important for oily and acne-prone skin. Look for this on the packaging.
3. Alcohol-free
For sensitive, dry skin. Alcohol is drying.
4. Fragrance-free, paraben-free
If you have allergic or sensitive skin - look for minimal additives.
5. Reef-safe / Ocean-friendly
If you plan to swim in the ocean - choose mineral without avobenzone and octinoxate (these substances damage coral reefs).
Frequently asked questions and myths
Does sunscreen block vitamin D synthesis?
Somewhat, but: SPF 30 blocks ~95% of UVB (needed for vitamin D synthesis). However:
- Nobody applies perfectly (gaps = some UVB gets through)
- Hands and arms are often exposed = enough for synthesis
- If you're worried about deficiency - supplement vitamin D, don't skip the sunscreen!
Do I need sunscreen in winter/under clouds?
Yes. UVA penetrates clouds and windows. Less UVB in winter (sunburn), but UVA year-round (ageing, cancer).
Can sunscreen replace moisturiser?
It depends. Some sunscreens contain moisturising ingredients and may suffice. Others are drying (especially alcohol-based). If you have dry skin - moisturiser first, then sunscreen.
Can I use last year's sunscreen?
Check the expiry date. Chemical filters break down over time (especially after opening). The jar symbol + number (e.g., 12M) = 12 months after opening. After that, effectiveness drops.
Does high SPF let me stay in the sun longer?
Not necessarily. SPF is the strength of protection, not time. SPF 50 + avoiding peak sun (11:00-15:00) is better than SPF 100 while sunbathing at noon.
How to use sunscreen - practical tips
Application order (morning skincare):
- Cleansing
- Toner (optional)
- Serum (if you use one)
- Moisturiser (if you need one)
- Sunscreen - last step, before makeup!
- Makeup (if you wear it)
Wait 2-3 minutes between sunscreen and makeup - let it absorb.
How to apply?
- Apply generously (1/4 teaspoon for face + neck)
- Spread evenly - don't skip ears, neck, decolletage!
- Don't rub too hard (especially mineral filters - they may pill)
- Give it a moment to absorb/dry
Removing in the evening
Sunscreen (especially water-resistant) needs to be thoroughly removed. Use:
- Cleansing oil or micellar water (first step)
- Cleansing gel/foam (second step - double cleansing)
Compare prices - pharmacy vs drugstore vs online
Sunscreen prices can vary hugely:
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50+ (50 ml): 15-22 EUR (pharmacy), 12-17 EUR (online)
- Eucerin Sun SPF 50+ (50 ml): 12-18 EUR
- Nivea Sun SPF 50 (200 ml): 6-10 EUR (drugstore)
- Garnier Ambre Solaire SPF 50 (200 ml): 5-9 EUR
Check prices on CheaperForDrug before buying - differences can reach 20-30%. Over a year (especially in summer, when you use more), you'll save a lot.
Summary - key takeaways
Use sunscreen every day - all year round, even in winter and under clouds
Minimum SPF 30 + UVA protection (UVA logo in a circle)
Apply generously: 1/4 teaspoon for face + neck. Don't skimp!
Mineral filter: sensitive skin, children, ocean. Chemical: oily skin, elegant consistency
Pharmacy vs drugstore: pharmacy for the face (better UVA protection, elegant consistency), drugstore for the body (economical)
Reapply every 2 hours during prolonged exposure and after swimming
Check the expiry date - filters break down
Disclaimer
This information is for educational purposes and does not replace consultation with a dermatologist. If you have skin problems, allergies, or are undergoing dermatological treatment, consult your doctor about sunscreen choice. Every skin is different and may require an individual approach.
Sunscreen is the simplest and most affordable investment in skin health and a youthful appearance. No anti-ageing cream, serum, or treatment does as much as daily UV protection. Start today - your skin will thank you in 20 years.
And once you know what to look for - compare prices on CheaperForDrug. Because healthy skin is one thing, and spending money wisely is another. Both matter.
